Hilary Armstrong
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Vennell’s, Masham
The Yorkshire Dales are home to swathes of grouse moor and one of the best places to sample the game bird is at Vennell’s restaurant in the market town of Masham, Lower Wensleydale.
The restaurant, which celebrates its Glorious Grouse Week from Tuesday, is a 10-minute dash from the A1 near Bedale but the drive up from Ripon on the A1608 will take you the scenic route past heather-clad moors and hunting estates such as Swinton, from which Vennell’s gets its game.
The two-year-old restaurant is run by Jon and Laura Vennell, a husband and wife team, and occupies a tiny storefront premises right by Masham’s handsome market square. Jon trained in Switzerland and the menu has French and Mediterranean overtones, although all the game comes from within a five-mile radius of his kitchen.
On this season’s menu (£21 for two courses) are carpaccio of roe deer loin with parmesan, truffle and olive oil; hare saddle, ravioli of the leg confit, seasonal mushrooms and beetroot purée; and roast crown of partridge, balsamic carrots, poached pear and gratin potatoes.
At any time of year, the Yorkshire cheese plate (£5.50) is a recommended indulgence, featuring smoked Ribblesdale, Brafferton goat’s cheese and others. Sunday lunches (£19.95 for three courses) are another highlight. Booking is essential.
SAMPLE MENU
Two courses for £21: pea mousse with pea shoots; pan-fried scallops; poached turbot, buttered sweetcorn and shrimps, boiled potatoes, aubergine confit; dessert
Vennell’s, 7 Silver Street, Masham, North Yorkshire, 01765 689 000
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